Narrowboat AREandARE

From the 2009 & 2010 tantalising tales, traumas and stunning photographs of Barry (photographer) and Sandra (writer) from New Zealand aboard NB 'Northern Pride', to the stories of their 2013 return journey, purchase of 'AREandARE', progress on sustaining their live aboard continuous cruiser lifestyle, and Barry's quest to gain residency and 'Indefinite Leave to Remain' in UK ...

Thursday 1 July 2010

Muddles and mirth on the Market Harborough Arm

It was only a short journey to Debdale Wharf Marina on Wednesday morning to fill up with diesel, then a distance of eight miles (no locks!) to Market Harborough.  The canal 'Arm' is very poorly signposted at Foxton, where we were confronted with a three choice junction - the Foxton Locks are obvious, but the other two don't show on our Nicholson's, with one of them having a swing bridge to negotiate.  So we took the middle arm and ended up in a dead end - turns out that this is the bottom of the famous 'Foxton Inclined Plane' which at one time was capable of taking barges of 13 foot width, or pairs of narrowboats, moving two boats up and two boats down every twelve minutes saving 90% of the water that the locks would use. Unfortunately this was dismantled in 1911, eleven years after it was opened, though there's a campaign underway for full restoration by the Foxton Inclined Plane Trust,  which would be awesome.  We'll explore this area when we return from Market Harborough ...


Debdale Marina which holds around 160 boats



Boatyard with a great looking boat crane lifting up to 30 tons - this boat's being sand blasted ready for painting

P1250318A   An old BW maintenance boat in the middle of nowhere brings a great colour contrast to this rural scene


Foxton staircase locks with two of the three pubs to be found here - obvious which is the right hand turning

P1250325A The new swing bridge - not marked on the Nicholson guide, neither was the short branch behind Sandra which we took initially - oh how the crowds laughed to see such fun!! 

Suffice it to say, we had to back out of the small arm and go through the swing bridge onto the Market Harborough Arm to cruise the 51/2 miles to the town.  The journey isn't terribly interesting being predominantly rural with trees, bushes or hills either side of the water so you can't even see into the distance.


Much the same scenery for the whole journey - beautiful but gets a bit like driving on a monotonous motorway after a while!



Hey You!   -   Who Me?

Once into Market Harborough though, you can tell immediately that this is another prosperous area of Leicestershire.  It was established in medieval times as a 'new town', some time in the  early 13th century, due to it's potential of the location between Leicester and Northampton at a river crossing.

Another place steeped in history, so here's my five fascinating facts about Market Harborough:

  1. In June 1645, Market Harborough figured in the English Civil War, when it became the headquarters of the King's Army. Resting in Market Harborough, the King decided to confront Parliamentary forces who were camped near Naseby but the Battle of Naseby proved a decisive victory for Parliament led by Oliver Cromwell. Harborough Chapel became a temporary prison for the captured forces.
  2. In 1841, Thomas Cook, a wood turner and cabinet maker in the town, organised the first group travel by rail from Leicester to Loughborough and subsequently developed the travel agency still bearing his name today.
  3. In the nineteenth century, Market Harborough expanded as a manufacturing centre, when the Symington brothers opened a corset factory - where the 'Liberty Bodice' was invented and made.
  4. In 1950 the canal basin was the venue for a week long 'National Festival of Boats', the first such Festival organised by the Inland Waterways Association which marked the beginning of the revival of the canal network for leisure use.
  5. HM Prison Gartree is west of the town, near Foxton, and the site of a prisoner escape by helicopter in 1987. The prison caters for prisoners on life sentences.


 Market Harborough's recently developed 'Union Wharf' is just stunning


A restful atmosphere pervades here

P1250367A  The 'Canalboatholiday' hire boats getting ready for the weekend 

As the name suggests, it's famous for its market - once again the opening times were against us, Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays!  Can you believe it, we arrived on a Wednesday and will leave on Thursday?!  We have to laugh at these missed opportunities of ours and not take it personally!

There are some gorgeous buildings in the town, including the timber framed 'Old Grammar School' which was built (on stilts!) in 1614 and continued as a school until 1892.  It's now used for church and public meetings.


 The dazzling diversity of architecture in Market Harborough


 We saw a couple of old bicycles with baskets around









St Dionysius' Church and the old Grammar School in the town square







The Grammar School building - complete with quotes from the bible inscribed into the wood


The sign may be a bit dated?


Another perspective on Union Wharf

P1250403A   Some of the permanent moorers in the basin

After exploring the town and stocking up with essential groceries from the Co-op, we found a short cut back to the boat, which took us past a narrowboat whose owners we'd briefly chatted to on the way in - 'Kookaburra dreams', obviously containing Australians!  Being fellow Antipodeans (we'll forgive them being Aussies!) they invited us back for a drink so we unpacked the shopping and strolled the hundred yards back up the canal for a short visit.  It turned into a three hour excursion due to a local character dropping by (three times in all on his way up and back and up again!) and entertaining us by telling increasingly dirty jokes and anecdotes of his life in Market Harborough - almost 83 years of it!  He should have a one-man show somewhere, such an amazing repartee and memory.




P1250429 Roy entertaining the masses - "Did I tell you the one about ...?"

P1250422 Tom & Margaret from Brisbane, Australia, on their third annual six month UK narrowboat soiree

On Thursday we'll make our way back to Foxton ready for the staircase locks after we've explored the area and of course taken a couple of photos!


More purple - the soothing smell of lavender - thanks for the link to wearing purple from Dijon

1 comment:

  1. We were there on Thursday (1st July) ourselves! Just passing through on our way back from taking #1 son to a driving experience thingy at Rockingham. There was a Farmers Market on! although we were to late for it ourselves, they were just packing up!
    Visited Foxton also - very nice place in the sunshine.