A short trip to Christchurch Meadows & some partying madness

Barry spent much of Saturday morning chatting with the owners of the boats moored in front and behind us, relishing a good chin wag with the brothers on the working boats, Archimedes and Ara - they gave him a website to check out but unfortunately it's no longer viable so they may want to update it?  You can, however, contact them via Tom Hill on 07973915146. They'd taken three days to travel to Oxford from London to do some coal deliveries and then they're turning back heading to Beale Park, Lower Basildon, for the Inland Waterways Association Festival and Boat Show on the August Bank Holiday weekend. 

Barry obtained a price list from them and we were dismayed to discover that we could've bought the 4 litres of 'loo blue' from them for only £9.00, having just paid £14.99!  What a difference, how can Boatyards justify such an extortionate profit I ask myself?

The low arched Osney Bridge in the background, with Archimedes in the foreground ...

and Ara alongside, with one of the brothers who run the boats from Little Venice in London

We left our mooring before we had to pay £5 a night taking a short cruise for a lunchtime drink at 'The Isis Farmhouse', Iffley Lock, an unusual riverside pub in that it has no roadside access.  Beer was once delivered to here from the river and apparently during the 19th century the owners received 5 shillings or 7 shillings and six pence (depending on the side of the river) for every corpse they retrieved - crikey, they must've been dangerous times!

It's only open Wednesday to Sunday and sells a restricted, though very healthy sounding, food and drink menu. In fact most of the drinks are organically produced so I sampled a rather delicious cider.

 Leaving our mooring at Osney Bridge; a bit of industry alongside the river here but it doesn't detract from the beauty 

 

 

The very popular 'Head of the River' pub adjacent to Folly Bridge 

 

 

 Folly Bridge and the island with a variety of shapes and sizes of buildings, including the offices of  Salter's Steamers passenger boat services

 The new buildings on the left look so out of place!

 Christchurch Meadow on the right

 

 

Narrowboats 'Emily' & 'Bronte' - one pulls (or pushes?) the other!

 

 

 An array of University Boathouses and a river full of punts - looks like fun

 Probably one for every College?

We're sort of becoming accustomed at weekends now to seeing a variety of party boats with all girl or all boy occupants, presumably they're mostly hen and stag parties.  A small cruiser pulled up while we were at the Isis Farmhouse, with five blokes on board, two of whom were shirtless and given short shrift by the Landlord who suggested they attire themselves decently or they wouldn't be partaking of his wares! They duly succumbed and returned to the boat to dress a little more appropriately, though their language was a lot worse when they got back to the garden but didn't draw a comment which I found rather hypocritical seeing as there were a number of small children around - it's bizarre what people can take offence to!

Another small cruiser that pulled alongside had 'Groove Armada' painted on it's side.  Kim sort of noticed this but didn't think too much of it until we'd departed when she exclaimed that maybe it really was her favourite 'bands' boat (they're actually DJ's I think!) and we suggested returning to check it out but we didn't.  Their single 'At the River' is one of my favourite tunes, and to think we could've met them 'at the river' too, possibly a missed opportunity?!

    Refreshments in the garden of The Isis Farmhouse 

 Returning to Christchurch Meadow to moor

        Yet more punts!                      Our visitor for a couple of hours while he went shopping

We were again fortunate to find a precious mooring, this time opposite Christchurch Meadow, which is a short walk to Sarah's house on Sunday morning for Kim to collect her car.  Shortly afterwards there were no moorings to be had, so the gentleman above asked if he could moor up alongside us and leave his dog on the boat while he did a spot of grocery shopping - we happily obliged and Kim got her dog petting 'fix' keeping him calm while his owner was away.

We thought we'd try and bit of Oxford night-life eating some delicious Thai food at a delightful pub called 'The Old Tom', a historic hostelry with friendly and happy staff (always a bonus in our view!): 

"Great Tom, in the Tom Tower, usually called Old Tom, is Oxford's loudest bell. At 9:05 every night, it rings 101 times. The tradition arises from the original number of students in the college -- plus one added in 1663. Five minutes after nine was once the time that the Oxford Colleges closed their gates and locked their doors. Great Tom was rung to indicate that each of the original 101 students was safely inside the gates.  The Old Tom Pub across the street from the Tom Tower since 1769 is, coincidentally, at Number 101 Aldgate."

We almost missed the bells ringing - well I missed them completely as I was paying our bill but Barry managed to catch the last few peels!  The issue for the students being 'safely inside the gates' probably originates from the fact that around the time that the University was first opened, the local inhabitants were not at all pleased to have them around and 63 students were murdered during a protest march! 

   A short stroll into town

The Old Tom (and Kim!)

We had a final drink in The Head of the River, before heading back to the river and the boat!  The most surreal sight accosted us as we walked back along the Thames Path - one of the Salter's party boats was returning with a boat-full of women dressed as sailors and as it headed back to town it was booming out Michael Jackson's 'Thriller', at the point where the voice of Vincent Price is describing hell, looking like a dark spectre with flashing lights - it was spectacularly spooky!

I took advantage of the situation once we were back at Northern Pride and had a bit of a dance on the path as they slowly made their way back to base at Folly Bridge - well it was so dark no-one could see me! 

 

 

 The Head of the River lit up - and the flashing lights of the disco diva boat!

  

 Looks like a couple of naked thistles

A spot of shopping in Oxford

It was another short trip day on Friday of about three miles and one lock to return to the city of Oxford.  The Thames flows in the far west side of the city outskirts, with the Oxford Canal hugging the sidelines - the two then finally almost merge at the end of the cut, where you enter the Thames via Isis Lock.  All the way from Godstow on the east-side there's a huge expanse of meadowland and a nature park - it's quite surreal considering there's such a large city just across the other side of the canal which almost acts as a boundary marker up to the railway station and centre.

Cows and horses mingle on Port Meadow, with the outskirts of Oxford in the background

Kim and Sandra at the stern                    Bossom's Boatyard and Medley Footbridge

We were lucky to get a prime mooring spot just past Osney Bridge where you can moor for 24 hrs freely, after that it'll cost you £5 per night up to 72 hours, and then should you be still around you'll be landed with £75 (or was it £25?!).

Moored up just past Osney Bridge, a short walk from the city centre

We're taking it slowly as we've arranged to meet with Helen and Andy (aka Captain Ahab) of Wand'ring Bark fame on Sunday in Abingdon, and Kim confirmed that she's staying with us until Sunday morning so we don't want to leave Oxford before then.  We also wish to make the most of our fifteen day Thames license that doesn't run out until 7 August, so will be relishing each expensive day.  The funny thing is that if we'd been staying in a hotel in Oxford, the £93.50 we paid for the privilege of being on the Thames would've been swallowed up in one night - that certainly puts it into perspective when we can moor up for free!

Kim and I took a walk into town to have a bit of girlie time.  There's a large Primark (or Primarni as Kim calls it!) store which we mooched around and purchased a few 'essential', and very cheap, items! 

I'd been wanting to visit the Museum of the History of Science to check out their exhibition by the philosopher and author Alain de Botton, along with photographs by Richard Baker, titled 'The Pleasures and Sorrows of Work'.  Maybe I'm looking for some inspiration for my future career which I'm hoping won't involve midwifery at some point in the not too distant future!  However we feel about it, our work tends to define who we are and/or how people see us, and after 23 years I've reached a point where I only continue in the profession to earn money rather than gaining much satisfaction from it, and for me that's just not sufficient.  Anyway, there were some very poignant, thought-provoking photos and text on display and I look forward to reading the book ('cos I asked Kim for it for my birthday, lol!), though I'm no closer to knowing what the future holds in that regard ...

Back to reality and we then had to do yet another grocery shop at Sainsbury's to fill up with goodies, while Barry had a ride in on his bike to carry the bags back to the boat.  Of course along the way he took a couple of photos - actually I'm very impressed that he only shot two scenes, he must be almost Oxford-ed out!

 

Punts on the River Cherwell discovered by Barry on his bike ride into Oxford

Back at the mooring there was hardly an inch of space left, and Barry was excited to see a couple of 'famous' working boats nearby, from the Candle Bridge Carrying Company ...

 

 

 

Narrowboats Archimedes and Ara

 

 

 

 

 

Possibly cheating and we've previously posted a sunflower - but it's Sandra's favourite flower!

Back once again to Morse's Oxford

On Thursday we tootled back to the west side of Oxford as we were actually craving some civilisation again after almost a week of remoteness.  Along the way we moored up as close as possible to a small place called Farmoor as we needed some milk or I'd not get my afternoon cup of tea which would never do!  Barry wanted to walk around the large Reservoir there, but unfortunately there's no public access.

Barry gets up close to some cygnets and the "Grey Lady" boat leaves her mooring in front of us

 Approaching Northmoor Lock

 

 

 

 

 

A wonderful windmill stands desolately in a field

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was just a short walk to the one shop at Farmoor which luckily sold milk - and also seemed to stock a vast range of South African meat, how peculiar!  One must conclude that the owners originate there, but why would you go to all the trouble of having supplies brought in from so far away when you're in England - I wonder if the local residents appreciate it - maybe there's a community of South Africans living in the area?

We walked back to the boat along the nature reserve surrounding the reservoir, enjoying sights of pretty butterflies and wild flowers, then sat in the afternoon sunshine with a cup of tea and home-made blueberry muffins - it's such a tough life!

 The reservoir at Farmoor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sandra and Kim resting up after a long walk to Farmoor and back to the boat

 

  A quick stop at Oxford Cruisers marina for diesel and some 'loo blue' (@ £14.99 - rather pricey!) 

  Moored boats at the marina

 Snakelike meandering river

 Approaching Swinford

 

 

Side hatches are ideal for duck feeding

 

 

Another trip under the toll bridge at Swinford

Continuing on we eventually moored up right next to the ruins of Godstow Abbey not far from Lower Wolvercote.  The Abbey has an interesting history:

• It was built on what was then an island between streams running into the River Thames;
• The site was given to the foundress Edith, widow of Sir William Launceline in 1133, by John of St John (!) and built in local limestone in honour of  St Mary and St John the Baptist for nuns of the Benedictine Order;
• The church was consecrated in 1139;
• Henry II gave the nun's funds for many things, probably due to the fact that his mistress Rosamund Clifford was buried there;
• Following the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII, it was converted into Godstow House by George Owen and occupied by his family until 1645, when the building was badly damaged in the Civil War;
• Following the damage, the building fell into disrepair and was used by the locals as a source of stone for their buildings; 
• During the 19th and 20th centuries, it was used for collecting livestock during the annual rounding up of animals on Port Meadow;
• In Victorian times, Charles Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) brought Alice Liddell (aka Alice in Wonderland) and her sisters, Edith and Lorina, for river trips and picnics at Godstow.

A selection of Abbey images ...

  

Barry shot off on his bike in search of some tonic water and soda, to mix with the gin and vodka on the boat, but alas after being away for over half an hour returned empty handed. The petrol station he found had every other drink imaginable - doesn't anyone around here drink gin?!

Ah well, he managed to take a few photos on his travels ...

 The Thames widens out considerably after Godstow Lock

The huge area of flood plains stretching to Oxford is perfect for walking the dog (and child!)

 A hire boat enters Godstow Lock - the abbey ruins can be seen in the background

 

 

Another boat-full of pirates, though mini versions this time 

 

 

 

   Wytham Village - cars and signs should be banned from spoiling such 'chocolate box' village scenes

Across Godstow Bridge is The Trout Inn, a very popular 17th century public house where you can sit out by the river, so of course it would've been rude for us not to visit the establishment and we went later in the evening to find it absolutely packed - well we though it was but the barman from Sydney said it was a quiet night considering that on Sundays it gets so busy there's standing room only.  The Inspector Morse television series was filmed here a number of times and they proudly display photographs of each series on their walls.

We didn't stay too late, just a couple of drinks each - it gets mighty expensive tasting the local ale in each place and we'll be running out of funds if we're not careful in the not too distant future!  So it was back to the boat for another game of cards in the week's tournament ...

On Friday we'll be heading into Oxford itself for yet more grocery shopping (oh for the luxury of a large fridge and deep freeze!) and another explore (or possibly a bit of a girlie shop!) before Kim leaves us either Saturday or Sunday.

Scotch Thistle and hoverfly silhouetted against the very dry grass

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Flowery conundrums solved by blog readers

We've had a couple of emails from readers informing us as to the names of a few of the most recent flower pictures - it's certainly educational to discover what they're called.

Val, a lady we met on our travels last year, gave us the following answers:

• The flower from the post of 23 July titled "These are just astounding - any offers?" is a Sea Holly/Eryngium, and you can find out more if you click here. 
• The one from the post of 24 July that "Looks foxglove-like, but suspect it isn't!" has a very unusual name - Bear’s Breeches/Acanthus click here for more details.

Dave, from Leicestershire, told us that the beautiful flowers on the  post from 25 July "These are truly stunning, wonder what they're called?" are called 'Echinops' or 'Globe Thistle' and says he has some in his garden that he bought from Mary Arden's House in Stratford which we visited last year and you can see on our blog post in May 2009.

Thanks Dave and Val!

Wednesday was another gentle day - Kim's been working her little heart out as a teacher and has recently broken up for the holidays, though she's still working for some of them so the plan was to give her a good break, and of course on a narrowboat it's the fastest way to slow down!  Before we left our rural mooring at Kelmscott, the lady on a punt cruised by us and moored up so Barry asked if it was OK to take a photo - how on earth does she not fall in the river standing on the back of the boat?  She was very slim so I suspect that helps, if I got on the back at the moment I reckon it'd capsize - I really must stop eating naughty foods and get off onto the towpath once we're on the Kennet and Avon to get some exercise!

Our mooring early on an eerie morning, nestled in the river bank at Kelmscott ...

with other boats nearby sharing the ghostly mist

Awesome - Barry was up and about while Kim and Sandra slept 

Far from the madding crowds here

The haze dissolved into a clear sky day

 

 

Some neighbours take their morning refreshment from the Thames

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Punting perfected

This stretch of the Thames from Oxford to Lechlade is so rural it can be a tad monotonous at times, just broken with the attractive locks, and with all the villages close by being set away from the river.  Obviously this was planned in case of flooding, but from what we've seen the floods here are minimal compared to other rivers such as the Avon or the Ouse, with the last big one being over a hundred years ago and even that was only around a foot from what we can make out by the markings! 

How's this for rest and recuperation?

Packing them into the lock - a cruiser, Northern Pride and an Anglo Welsh hire boat along with a labradoodle and Jack Russell!

Kim checks out the Easter Island topiary at Radcot Lock

Luckily there's an array of public houses very near to the water, and we took advantage of one mooring just past Tadpole Bridge and managed to get a drink at The Trout Inn (there's three pubs of that name just along this stretch of the river!) before they closed for the afternoon at 1500hrs.  It looked like a smashing place with a very tasty looking menu - though you're recommended to phone up to book a table AND a mooring place as they only have space for two narrowboats.

 

 

 

 

Sandra & Kim absorbing some rays outside the Trout Inn

 

 

 

Kim holds onto the front rope at Rushey Lock

Tadpole Bridge by the Trout Inn

 Last lock of the day at Shifford

It was then back to Newbridge where we managed to moor in the same place as on our previous visit, to go the Rose Revived Inn as we'd noticed they have a selection of vegetarian food for Kim - fortuitously we moored again away from effluent stream, at no cost, hurrah!

 The setting sun reflects on the water, with The Maybush illuminated across the bridge

After a pleasant meal - two for the price of one for Barry and I - we ventured across the bridge to the Maybush which was amazingly empty while the previous establishment had been packed - we wonder how some pubs make any money at all?  And what makes one popular and another hard to attract people?  Previously we've said it's the people working in the establishments that can make or break them, but in the case of these two pubs we haven't been able to come up with an answer as they're both lovely and welcoming - maybe it's as simple as having a meal deal?

A single purple poppy surrounded by seed pods