Narrowboat AREandARE

From the 2009 & 2010 tantalising tales, traumas and stunning photographs of Barry (photographer) and Sandra (writer) from New Zealand aboard NB 'Northern Pride', to the stories of their 2013 return journey, purchase of 'AREandARE', progress on sustaining their live aboard continuous cruiser lifestyle, and Barry's quest to gain residency and 'Indefinite Leave to Remain' in UK ...

Friday, 6 August 2010

Abbey life, England's past and a photo of a Kingfisher! Yaay!

Our travels recently have taken us to a number of Abbeys dotted along the Thames from the days of the French Pilgrims, and spookily I've been reading Joanne Harris's book called 'Holy Fools' which I'd picked up on a book swap from the launderette at Braunston Marina - it's coincidentally set in 17th century France and much of it is based around Abbey life.  Once again I'm struck by how little knowledge I have of English history and picked up more gems on Thursday when we visited Dorchester and its Abbey.

P1300421 Walking the path through the corn fields to Dorchester - under a rather ominous sky

Dorchester sits close to the confluence of the rivers Thame and Thames, and was a centre of Saxon Christianity.  The village is delightful, with houses, just a few shops, three pubs and a Co-op store, and the restored Abbey taking pride of place.  

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             Flint ingrained brick cottage from 1715                                 Old converted pub

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'Thatchers Cottage' - almost chocolate box perfect

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Main street of Dorchester with the Fleur De Lys pub, circa 1520

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A rather unusual corner building which used to be Dorchester's Missionary College

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The White Hart Hotel on Dorchester's High Street

 

 

 

 

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This little High Street house is only about eight feet wide - it must be rather compact inside

 

 

 

 

 

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   A thatched cob wall - haven't seen one of these before              The side door to the abbey

Within the Abbey there are once again fascinating timelines of England and I was astounded to realise that much of English life was ruled by Abbeys for around 400 years, from the 12th to the 16th century when Henry VIII ordered the dissolution of the Monasteries.  Incredible to think that this accounts for about 7 generations!  It certainly makes me relieved I didn't live in the middle ages, there's a high chance I'd have been burnt at the stake as a witch as I really don't think I could bear the confines of a secular society, try as I might I've never been able to believe in a 'God'-like presence watching me and to whom I should ask for forgiveness daily if I step slightly out of line or have a bit of fun. 

At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries, Dorchester's church building was saved from destruction by wealthy landowner Richard Beauforest, who bought it for £140 and subsequently left it to the village in his will.

On our visit to the museum in Abingdon, we saw an exhibition about the Puritans which I also found incredible - what stark and dismal lives they led, wearing only black and white or grey and not taking any pleasure from life as they were hoping for redemption in the next life if they lived this one purely.  After years of thinking I may be a little odd not to 'believe', I finally found my personal 'niche' in Humanism, where their belief is that it's highly unlikely there's another life after this one which frees me up to enjoy this one to the full!

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The breathtaking Abbey interior, with crocheted kneeling cushions each with an individual design

 

 

 

 

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Candle chandelier and the People's Chapel which has an original restored 14th century wall-painting of a crucifixion

 

 

 

P1300494A Tombstones at the abbey with the rickety 'thatched cottage' in the background

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The old Toll House at the end of the road - one of the earliest roads to become a toll road due to its location on the main road from Gloucester, and the Oxford to London route

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The bridge over the River Thame, which runs south east of Dorchester

 

 

 

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 A resplendent roses round the door cottage

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Another aspect of the converted pub alongside an ivy covered house 

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Along the footpath to Dorchester there's what looks like a heavily furrowed field but is actually a Celtic settlement and a rare example of a pre-Roman town, called the Dyke Hills

Having got up late and mooched around Dorchester for so long, we finally set off mid-afternoon down the Thames, heading to Goring.

P1300524A Another view of poohsticks bridge past Day's Lock

Though the time was well spent, we think we may've stayed too long in Abingdon, as there's not enough time now to visit the other places along the way!  But we're aware we can't see everything, so although Wellingford looked and sounded splendid, we didn't have time to stop as it was already after 1700hrs when we travelled through ...

 P1300534A  How about this one for a des res?

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    So many beautiful boathouses along the Thames ...          and a river swimmer - how brave!

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 Skirting through Wallingford with many a backward glance ...

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to Wallingford Bridge - 17 arches, only 5 over the river, originally built around 1141, rebuilt in 1809 and has a Bridge Chamberlain appointed annually 

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 And yet more boathouses

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 A little sunshine every now and again lit up the way

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 Moulsford Railway Bridge - built by Brunel

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 Hurrah!  Barry managed to get a Kingfisher photo!

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 Cruisers for hire

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More amazing homes ... 

 

 

 

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and a rather ostentatious riverside property just past Wallingford - it'd look more at home in NZ's Art Deco capital, Napier, than here - bizarre!

 

 

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Ploughing a very dry and dusty field

Approaching Goring we could feel the wealth oozing from the properties, and weren't surprised to learn from the lock-keeper that George Michael has a home not far from Goring Lock.  We'd travelled to the lock hoping for one of the few Environment Agency moorings down river, but they were understandably all taken by the time we got there.

We turned around and managed to get a mooring, but not such a lucky one as the previous night's, as it entailed a rather precarious walk of the plank to disembark, and was so close to bunches of nettles that we had to close windows or they may've invaded the boat.  There was a notice saying there'd be a charge of £4 but no-one came to collect so that was a bonus.

P1300603A  Not sure if this is a residence with a boathouse underneath, or just a boat's house? 

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 Approaching Goring Lock

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The weir at Goring - straddled by gangs of geese

 

 

 

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No moorings after Goring Lock, so we turned back around without going in 

 

 

 

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 Another spectacular home

On Friday we'll visit Goring and see if it's really so gorgeous, especially if George is around - he's one of my favourite artists, despite his misdemeanours (or maybe in spite of them bless him!).

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Spot the poppy!

Thursday, 5 August 2010

Down river to Dorchester

I forgot to mention in previous posts that Helen and I did a bit of a book swap on Sunday - she's taken my 'Kiwi Afloat' to read and left us with 'Water Road'.  Kiwi Afloat is written by Dorris Coppell, a New Zealander now in her 80's who spent many years in the 1970's living in England, and along with her British husband, travelled some of our waterways in three different boats they owned.  It's an interesting tale, but I found it quite hard going at times as the language can be quite 'flowery' and overly descriptive for my liking.  Water Road has had mixed reviews from what I've seen, so it'll be interesting to read it and form our own opinions.  One thing's for sure, it's got to be easier to read than that 'Narrowdog' publication - there's not many books that I don't stick with until the end, but that one beat me hands down (I do grudgingly admire him for finding a niche in the market and making a lot of money out of his story though!).

We finally left Abingdon on Wednesday, we've only got four more days on our Thames License so we'd best get a move on!  It was a productive stay though, and Barry completed fitting the cratch glass wooden surround - a 100% improvement on the previous poor tired, old model where the wood had become irreplaceably rotten on the inside and we'd accidentally cracked the glass last year. 

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In with the new and out with the old - our poor broken cratch window comes to an inglorious demise

 

We had our first downpour in a while on Wednesday, which is great news as we'll be heading onto the Kennet and Avon at the weekend and it's running rather low!  After lunch it abated somewhat so we returned up to Abingdon Lock for a pump out, pump in and a rubbish dump.  There's a dearth of facilities on this part of the Thames so we have to grasp opportunities while we can.

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Down river in Abingdon passing St Helen's church (broader than it is long as it has five aisles!), Long Alley Almshouses and The Old Anchor

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P1300274A It's becoming apparent we're getting into the 'Wind in the Willows' territory now

Our aim was to go to Dorchester, a small Roman town on the banks of the Thame and Thames, just 8 miles and a couple of locks away.  We almost didn't make it even such a short journey though, as at Clifton Lock the Lock-keeper walked to the boat as we tied up waiting, to inform us that the hydraulics were leaking and he was expecting an engineer to arrive some time later, but he thought he may get one more lock-full completed - luckily that included us!

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Sharing Clifton lock with a narrowboat, a rather large cruiser called 'Hurley Dawn' and a charity rowing boat hidden behind

We're beginning to see some huge cruisers now and humongous houses, you can certainly notice the immense wealth of many people living in the south of England, particularly around these parts as they're a short commute to London.

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The very impressive 'Clifton Hampden Bridge'

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Leading the way under the bridge ...

 

 

 

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but not for long ...

P1300305A  even the other narrowboat overtook us!

Reaching the outskirts of Dorchester, we saw many boats moored up sporadically along the bank, and spotted a prime niche just made for Northern Pride which we snuck into - an idyllic rural mooring.  After tying up we had an evening walk across 'Pooh Sticks Bridge', aka Little Wittenham Bridge, where they hold the annual world Poohsticks Championships that were cancelled in March this year due to high river flows, but are rescheduled for the autumn.  I've visited the real Poohsticks Bridge, not far from Haywards Heath, north of Brighton, but hadn't heard of this one where they actually have championships!  It's such a narrow bridge, it's unimaginable that it could draw such attention - or maybe it's not really a big event?!

Continuing to Little Wittenham, Barry took a stroll up the Wittenham Clumps - I declined the offer as I had my UG boots on which aren't terribly suitable for trekking up inclines in!  The weather certainly seems to be turning autumnal already, with much cooler evenings, yikes!  The nights are now drawing in, whilst conversely in NZ they are becoming longer ready for spring-time next month.

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 Our idyllic rural mooring

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Looking up to Round Hill 

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 A few anaemic looking cows in the field on the edge of Dorchester-Upon-Thames

 

 

 

 

 

 

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 Showing off the new cratch glass and chilling at our private riverside picnic spot

P1300348A A woman outstanding in her field

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 A dramatic sky as we walked along - rain in the distance led to a resplendent rainbow

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 Eerie sky

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 'Pooh Sticks Bridge', aka Little Wittenham Bridge

P1300359A   Dorchester in the background - must be a pot of gold there somewhere! 

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 View from the top of Round Hill on Wittenham Clumps - an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, owned and managed by Northmoor Trust who arrange the some unique 'green' children's birthday parties

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 Dorchester Abbey dominates the town

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 Didcot Power Station can be seen for miles around to the west

P1300390 The Beech tree wood atop Round Hill

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 St Peter's Church, Long Wittenham 

P1300410A   Another World War II Bunker close to the footpath to Dorchester

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 A variety of boats moored for the night

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The remains of the the evening sunlight sneak through the clouds to dance on the river 

We returned to the boat and had a very late meal, but it's not an issue when you don't have to get up early the next morning!  We'll be taking the path across the fields into Dorchester on Thursday to explore the town and visit another Abbey ...

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I really should know this one - is it a type of Dahlia?