Narrowboat AREandARE

From the 2009 & 2010 tantalising tales, traumas and stunning photographs of Barry (photographer) and Sandra (writer) from New Zealand aboard NB 'Northern Pride', to the stories of their 2013 return journey, purchase of 'AREandARE', progress on sustaining their live aboard continuous cruiser lifestyle, and Barry's quest to gain residency and 'Indefinite Leave to Remain' in UK ...

Monday, 14 September 2009

Froghall basin - is it a joke or what?

It was so deathly silent at Consall Forge that we didn't wake up until 10 o'clock!  Emerging from the boat into daylight, Chris and Morgan next door were already up and about with their lines over the front of the boat catching American Signal Crayfish.

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Pretty horrific looking creatures, all that was needed to catch them was some liver on a line

They'd told us about this phenomena yesterday evening; apparently these creatures were brought across the Atlantic to farm as gourmet food but never quite took off, they also escaped into the canals and are a real pest eating the British crayfish which are even smaller.  Crayfish in New Zealand are enormous in comparison with either variety, and we can get an excellent meal from them.  These American cousins have just a snippet of meat in their tales, and a morsel in their claws.  Yet another reason not to swim in the canals as they have a nasty nip! Though apparently you only find them in the Caldon, the Macclesfield and the Oxford canals.

 P1130723 Might be just enough for a nibble or two

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 Don, with Morgan and Chris on NB Dovedale, trying for more crayfish

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 The Lime Kilns close to the mooring at Consall Forge

P1130730  Inside one of the chambers that's still leeching quicklime

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Exit from the river back to the canal, where some clever dick has built the landing so tight that you scrape the side of the boat going through however careful you are!

P1130740  The steam railway station at Consall; looks very authentic, but only runs at weekends and bank holidays

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 Converted railway housing presumably

The remainder of the journey on this arm takes you to a place called Froghall.  Just prior to the basin there's a tunnel which we were hoping we'd get through, but had been told by numerous people that it was unlikely. It seemed that the dimensions that it takes differ depending on who you ask or which publication you read it.

At the final lock before Froghall Tunnel there's a plastic pliable 'gauge' as you exit the lock, which gives the approximate shape and size of the tunnel - no more than five foot cabin height or depth. We didn't quite make it underneath without flapping the sides so no tunnelling for us!  On reaching the aforementioned it looked as though it would take our boat, but of course there was no way we could've attempted it - wouldn't it be embarrassing to give it a go and get wedged?! 

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The tunnel template at the end of the last lock before Froghall Tunnel 

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Such neat bridge shapes, but oh so narrow!

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Looking down the barrel of Froghall Tunnel - is it really that low somewhere inside?

We don't see how any boats ever go through it, and Froghall Basin is this immaculate place with superb moorings but completely devoid of boats!  Money was bequeathed to the basin for improvements, and we're told that a lot of more money was added to it and spent doing it up a few years ago.  It has an abundance of weeds growing - I wonder why?  We reckon it must be one of the cushiest BW jobs going - and we saw a very pucker BW worker strolling along the towpath bless him!

We walked to the lime kilns there, and took a look around the area.  It's extremely isolated with no phone or internet signal.  Luckily there'd been a wi-fi at the pub last night, so we'd been able to publish a blog (thanks Jason!).  Lime was an important agricultural material in the 18th and 19th Centuries.  The limestone was burnt with coal at the top of the kiln, the end product of which was quick-lime that was shovelled out of the bottom and taken to waiting boats - it would've been a shocking career as it's a terrible irritant.  In the 1770's 50 tons of quicklime was produced here, but by the 1850's this rose to 6,000 tons!  It's incredible to think how busy this place would've been, it's just so deserted now.

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 The six old lime kilns

P1130763Froghall Basin, but where are all the boats?? 

 P1130767 The only boat moored past the tunnel is the tour boat 'Birdswood' - does this really fit through the tunnel?

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What a beautiful, tranquil setting

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An old tiller outside the Information Centre - sadly it was closed!

We had a bit of a walk around the basin and then a climb up a hill (at Barry's insistence!), emerging onto a very busy main road from Leek to Uttoxeter.  Back to the boat and we returned along the Caldon as far as we could go before the sun set.

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Sandra feeling the strain of the almost vertical incline

  A few scintillating scenes on the way back up the Caldon ...

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Lichen on the lock wall; very pretty but a bit boring!

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Back to Consall Forge, and past the Black Lion Pub without stopping :-(

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Jill & Den's boat (almost!) - bet that rocks!!

  P1130821 Past the Hollybush Inn without stopping :-(

P1130806...  and continued to just short of Stockton Brook for the night where we arrived after dark

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It's been a long day on the cut!

P1130843 I suspect these geese might be flying south

Tonight we couldn't seem to get an internet connection from the mooring so Barry walked closer to the town with the laptop, then up a hill, then back again and up an even taller hill, where he said he thought he could see all the way to London! It still wouldn't connect, which was terribly frustrating, then when he got back to the boat we realised that our 'Three' credit had expired for the month because we didn't top it up correctly for broadband use - duh!

Sunday, 13 September 2009

What a carry on up the Caldon...

Fred and the boys needed to be setting off for home around midday, so he and Barry formulated a plan which meant we could still get to the end of the line at Leek.  Fred left mid-morning on Barry's fold-up bike and headed back to collect his car.  Meanwhile Barry, the boys and I continued eastwards in the boat.

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Crisp fresh morning dew, but brilliantly sunny!

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Rolling countryside with lush looking farms

I think the boys were getting a little fed-up being cooped up in such a confined space, so we had a game of 'frustration'; very aptly named because it frustrated the hell out of them when they couldn't get the dice to spin a six or their player got sent back when it was almost 'home'!  But it kept them amused for a short while ...

I thought I'd better get some blogging done as we were getting very behind, but while I was writing it world war three was erupting in the cabin!  I may've turned into the bitch from hell (sorry boys!) because I couldn't take it anymore and marched poor little Alex to the back of the boat and locked him out there with Barry, keeping Tom inside the cabin with me. Shame, they insisted they weren't really fighting and it was just what boys do, but the noise level was too high voltage for my poor ear drums!

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The boys take a spell on top

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Nice way to see the countryside

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Keith, I finally found you a boat!

The left arm of the Caldon took us about an hour and a half to travel down; there's not much to see apart from trees, hills and birdlife.  Then suddenly you come to the end of the line with no warning, the canal just tapers into nothing, with an Industrial Estate on the side.  So it was a case of turning around and going back the way we'd been. We moored up and walked to the closest road ready to meet with Fred, and it wasn't long before he found us.  Bless him he'd bought us some presents - a cooked chook (aka chicken); toilet rolls; fresh bread; ground coffee; replacement coca cola (for Barry's rum!) and other bits and pieces.

We had lunch and then the boys left us in peace - it was a great weekend and we loved to have them on board, despite the shenanigans of brotherly love!

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The Leek Tunnel, at 130yds long, just wide enough for a boat

  P1130659 Sandra heading away from the Leek  winding hole after we dropped Fred and the boys off ...

P1130660...  and back through the tunnel

P1130662 Still bright and sunny

P1130669 Back over the aqueduct to the Froghall turnoff

P1130670 More lovely English countryside around here

As we'd come this far, we decided we really ought to complete the other arm of the Caldon, towards Utoxeter.  So back we went to a sharp right hand turn and three locks.  At the top lock were a family of five who volunteered (or did I volunteer them maybe?!) to assist me with the locks.  Once through, I asked if they'd like a ride on the boat and they jumped at the chance.  They'd been walking towards the Holly Bush where we were drinking last night, so much to their delight we took them all the way there and dropped them off right outside.

Barry said to me afterwards, "I thought you'd had enough of children?", and I laughed and said that I loved kids really, I just couldn't eat a whole one!  Lol!

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We had to wait for this old working boat to come through the lock at the turnoff, the old engine puffing and panting and beating a lovely tune!

  P1130682There were plenty of spectators through the locks considering how isolated this area is 

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 We gave one family a ride to the Holly Bush Inn for helping us with the locks: Tore, Tony, Joe, Jill and Lucy (hope we've spelt them all correctly!)

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The waterwheel and mill at Flint Mill near Cheddleton

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More of Flint Mill

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Going under part of the old mill buildings

 P1130700  The steam engine of the Churnet Valley Railway line

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The canal joins the river at the lock for just over a mile from Oakmeadow lock to Consall Forge ...

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... the weir in the background, the river becomes a canal again round to the left

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The lime kilns at Consall Forge

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 A semi-derelict cottage which appeared to be getting a make-over by an elderly couple

We continued along the canal, which was now eerily silent both inside and outside of the boat, stopping at Consall Forge where we met up again with Don and had a meal and a couple of drinks at The Black Lion pub.  We also got chatting to Chris and Morgan who were moored up beside us - spookily enough Chris is a midwife so Barry and Morgan had to contend with a bit of shop talk!

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The Black Lion

P1130714 Don regales Sandra with a tale or two

 P1130716 Jason, the manager, and the chef (sorry we didn't get your name!) - plenty of real ale here for Barry - a proper job!

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Night-time at Consall Forge - spooky but very impressive!