Narrowboat AREandARE

From the 2009 & 2010 tantalising tales, traumas and stunning photographs of Barry (photographer) and Sandra (writer) from New Zealand aboard NB 'Northern Pride', to the stories of their 2013 return journey, purchase of 'AREandARE', progress on sustaining their live aboard continuous cruiser lifestyle, and Barry's quest to gain residency and 'Indefinite Leave to Remain' in UK ...

Tuesday, 25 August 2009

Birds, baroque buildings and big engines

Despite today’s heavy rain forecast, it was a beautiful sunny morning so we headed for Pennington Flash before it changed its mind! The area is basically a flooded coal mine with an abundance of wildlife, walks and play areas for the children. There are bird-watching Hides scattered all around, and in the Visitor Information Centre there’s a list of the variety of feathered friends that have been spotted at one time or another. We only saw a few: Heron, Magpie and Lapwing! The Lapwings were the ones we’d not seen previously, and were very impressive viewed from one of the Hides with some fellow bird-watchers.

P1090899 The teenage swans all hissing and grunting to get some bread

P1090906 Sandra checking for any new species

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 View across the 'Flash' which is used for a myriad of activities, including sailing

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All sorts of birds seemingly getting on all right together

Of course there were also many ducks and swans around, and Barry got up close and personal with a few of them, teasing them into believing that he had food to share whilst allowing them to peck his fingers as is his want! He even stroked one brave swan’s feathers more than once without it hissing at him; I think he has a bit of a thing for young birds!

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Barry being used as swan food

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Look at the size of this swan foot, similar shape and texture to Barry's

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Sandra following blindly in a trance, outside one of the Hides

P1090921   'A flock on a rock'

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The beautifully coloured Lapwings

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Next stop was a visit to Leigh as we’d read that there’s a fine Baroque Town Hall in the Market Place. The town centre was a little tired looking, lots of pubs for sale and derelict buildings, but the Town Hall was indeed an elegant building inside and out.

There we read a series of information boards telling the story of The Spinning Jenny, that was reportedly invented by Thomas Highs of Leigh and NOT James Hargreaves who Sir Richard Arkwright credited with it – Hargreaves improved on Highs’ design that he’d built years before, and it's said he is the true genius of the Industrial Revolution cottontimes.co.uk/hargreaveso.htm

 

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 'The Boar's Head' an attractive pub in town

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 Plenty of flowers scattered round the town centre

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 Lovely baroque style stairway in the Town Hall

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Information boards and tile painting of the original 'Spinning Jenny' on display

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 The main shopping area in Leigh

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  The taxi stand must have been designed around the time the 'Jetsons' were on TV

We didn’t prolong our visit to Leigh, and returned to the canal by lunchtime. The water there is so clear you can see the bottom in most places which was quite surreal – it’s probably best not to know what’s down there – we spotted a few bikes, a metal bowl, pushchairs and children’s plastic toys, traffic cones, the springs of a mattress, round wooden tables from the pub across the way and an array of indistinguishable metal objects! A positive aspect was that there were also plenty of small fish swimming around.

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The 'stop plank crane' that marks the border between the 'Leeds & Liverpool' and 'Bridgewater' canals at Leigh

The Bridgewater Canal is not ‘owned’ by British Waterways but is run by The Manchester Ship Canal Company and boats with a BW license can use it for a limited period – Nicholson’s suggests only seven days but we haven’t noticed anyone restricting usage so far . The canal was built over 250 years ago and was the brainchild of Francis Egerton, the 3rd Duke of Bridgewater, who’d seen a canal in France and been inspired by the concept (http://www.penninewaterways.co.uk/bridgewater/bri2.htm). It took a lot to persuade the powers that be of the merits of a canal, and swallowed a large chunk of his personal fortune, but he persevered and it revolutionised the transport system in the north of England (and he made all his money back and then some!). It was also the first canal that James Brindley worked on, a famous canal engineer whose statue we photographed in Coventry Basin.

One of the great things about this canal is that there are no locks. Unfortunately however, we’re only staying on it as far as Manchester where we’ll encounter more than enough to make up for the break!

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 Leaving Leigh - plenty of disused or partly used old buildings around here that haven't been turned into apartments yet!

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 Quite majestic really!

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Lovely new housing along this stretch

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 'Leigh Spinners', the sign across the front of this mill says

P1090957    Looking back towards Leigh and one of the Mills

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 A little boat for Monique complete with a set of creatures 

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Nice to be back with bridges you don't have to swing or lift

P1090964 The aerials we saw way back when? Still in view now

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 Amazing peacock just meandering along the side of the canal as we passed

We moored for lunch at Astley Green so that Barry could visit the Pit Museum there. I tried to get out of it, but after he’d left the boat he called to say he’d left his memory card in the laptop so I had to take it to him and have bit of a look around (as it was free!). Unsurprisingly I was the only female around, apart from the models of the women who were unfortunate enough to have worked in the mines. We think we have life hard today, but boy the women and children of those times must’ve worked so hard as well as the men. One woman’s narrative told of how she’d worked up until the day one of her children; in fact she gave birth in the pit and brought the baby up with her wrapped in her skirt! Luckily she wasn't wearing the handed down male trousers on that day, or it would’ve been a different story! Another told of how she’d given birth to eight children but only four of them were born alive. The children worked in the mines from the age of five or six; it’s inconceivable today isn’t it? Barry will regale you now with tales of big engines …

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The main entrance to the colliery which must have been a dreaded sight each morning to the workers

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 The 'Pit Head'

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 The ginormous (yes it IS a word, we've checked!) 3300HP Yates & Thom steam winder built in 1912, the largest in Europe, that drove the winch to bring the coal to the surface

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Apparently they were able to bring the coal up 800ft in two minutes 

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 Both engines would be able to run if they could get enough steam or compressed air to fill their vast cylinders

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Prior to mechanisation, horses, women and children were used to haul huge loads along the tunnels and to the surface. The horses spent their entire working life underground in virtual darkness, never seeing daylight.

It was an interesting little museum with machinery in various states of renovation and free entry, though only open at limited times. agcm.org.uk/museum.shtml

The pub up the road was advertising a quiz night this evening, so we thought we’d stay put. As we approach Manchester we’re aware that we’ll be back in a large city, so want to make the most of the remaining countryside and not rush our journey. We’ve also heard on the radio today that there’s been some gang related problems in Manchester, which is a tad disconcerting!

P1110001 Jim & Chris from Ivybridge, Devon (though we have to point out that Jim is originally from Truro in Cornwall!) in the hire boat moored opposite us, joined us for the quiz night

The quiz night was fun and it was a great little pub (Ross's Arms).  Following the quiz there was a game of 'bingo' played unusually with six playing cards, and I won the second game and got 20 quid!  Yaay!  That paid for our night out.  A local trio also had their practice session later on, and sang some tantalising harmonies; they even managed a chorus of 'There'll be bluebells over, the White Cliffs of Dover' on request from Jim!

Monday, 24 August 2009

Narrowboats and Fishermen

Firstly, grateful thanks to John (johngarghanphotos.blogspot.com) for emailing us with information on an improved method of posting and editing our blog which also enables viewers to click onto links without losing your place (windowslivewriterspaces.live.com).  We’ve tried it out on Sunday’s and today’s blog and it's much quicker to post and the links seem to work!  And Barry is also happy that the photos are a better quality on the screen - I’m sure you’ll agree …

Our aim today was to leave Wigan and get to the junction of the Leeds/Liverpool and Bridgewater canal, only about seven miles away. There were three locks to do (alone again!), but nothing too strenuous. At the third lock some passing cyclists stopped for a look and we got chatting. Ian had been brought up in Wigan and fondly recalled how, as a boy, he’d travelled the canals with friends on their bikes hitching long rides on strangers narrowboats. Not like the few yards we’ve been taking the odd child on! Ian is now living in California and had brought his American wife back to see his hometown. We showed them around the boat, and the map of where we’ve travelled on the canals and rivers of Britain since mid April. Unfortunately Barry missed getting a photo of them, but they did get the obligatory blog card …

P1090880 If only happy English wrote graffiti, there wouldn’t be so much of it!  Or maybe this was one of the seven dwarves passing by?

The landscape changes just outside of Wigan, with the canal sitting above the rest of the countryside due to severe mining subsidence in the area. The canals have been built up using pit waste and seem solid enough, but it was a little disconcerting to imagine coal mines beneath us that could potentially give way at any time!

As we approached Plank Lane Swing Bridge (which is actually a lift bridge with an inaccurate name!), I drove rather too close to a fisherman who shook his head scathingly. Now I’m usually very courteous to fishermen, despite the fact that they choose some very random and hard to see spots, and know I'm supposed to move to the other side of the canal and slow down, but this man and his mates were right next to the mooring pins for the lift bridge that I needed to drop Barry off at, so to have to move over and then negotiate back in seemed to me too ridiculous (and I may not have made it!). There really needs to be a bit more reciprocity in these fisherman/narrowboat scenarios, and I personally believe they should respect our challenge of steering a heavy boat into moorings and not fish in stupid places!! Barry was on the fisherman’s side (being the expert driver who would’ve found it no problem to steer around and back again!), so I was a little miffed with him to say the least …

After all that palaver, the lift bridge was manned by BW (and if we'd been paying attention to the Nicholson's Guide we'd have been aware of that!), and we stopped immediately before it for a pump out and water pump in. The facilities were right in the entrance to the bridge, so if there was another boat waiting they’d have to sit there while you get rid of your s--t!  Yet again a bizarrely situated but invaluable nonetheless, pump-out station!

P1090883 Through the swing/lift bridge over a very busy road …

P1090884and out the other side swiftly

Shortly afterwards we drove past Pennington Flash Country Park, a 200 hectare area that we’ll probably go and visit tomorrow, if the weather is kind to us!

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Pennington Flash, one of the ‘flashes’, or lakes formed from the flooded coal mines

A mile or so later and we moored up for the night at the mill town of Leigh, on the changeover of the two canals (though the only sign of the difference is a ‘plank crane’ at the side of the canal; not your normal junction!), and visited the ALDI supermarket right on the side of the canal. I have to say I was impressed with their range of food, maybe these ‘cheap’ foreign supermarkets are improving.  I find it fascinating to go round them and see what delights they have from Europe that you wouldn’t normally find in Tesco’s or Sainsbury’s (or maybe I just don't look hard enough?). Today I found some Bratwurst sausages from Germany, and a zywiecka pepper sausage from Poland, amongst other things! They say variety is the spice of life …

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 'The Waterside Inn' opposite our mooring

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Geese against the railings of the pub

Sunday, 23 August 2009

Nicholson’s gets it wrong again!

Surprise, surprise, the weather turned nasty once again overnight and is now cloudy and periodically rainy! I overheard Barry saying to Lisa that he now knows what they mean by a ‘heatwave’ in Britain – it’s when the sun shines for more than one day in a row! We shan’t know what to do back in Gisborne when we see it almost every day, it’ll be quite a novelty that’s for sure!

After a bacon sandwich and a chilled morning, we headed back to Wigan for Lisa’s train this evening. I did the driving again so that Barry and Lisa could continue their photography ‘course’. Lisa did manage a short go on the tiller towards the end of the journey, just to say she’d done it. I think she also realised that, although life on board a narrowboat is much less stressful than ‘real’ life, contrary to popular belief we don’t just sit around all day! There’s house(boat)work, engine work, pumping in water and pumping out other things, locks, mooring up, shopping (and with a tiny fridge there’s a lot of this!), cooking, washing (by hand or at the laundry unless you have a washing machine on board), and of course many hours spent on the blog – writing, putting on photos and then editing. However I’m sure she also discovered what fun it is too …

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These two dogs went in the canal for a swim, but couldn’t get out so the owner had to drag each one out then run so they didn’t saturate him when they shook themselves!

P1090856 Lisa on the last lock of the weekend – an expert lock-girl now!

We discovered, from a couple of lads lounging around at the side of a lock, that the score for yesterday’s match was Manchester United 5 Wigan 0 – it’s a good job we were passing at the beginning rather than the end as the atmosphere would have been very different!

We had a tasty Sunday lunch before walking Lisa back to the train station to return to her lovely home in Malpas, following a very enjoyable weekend that went all too quickly.

P1090859 Sandra & Lisa at the station

Barry and I decided to stay in Wigan overnight as the weather was pretty dire. On the way back to the boat we passed another part of Trencherfield Mill where they have the working steam-powered mill engine. In the Nicholson’s Guide it had stated that this is only working and open to visitors on Sunday mornings, so we thought we wouldn’t be able to see it AND take a drive up the canal. But when we investigated the actual place and saw the opening times, we were disappointed to find that it was open from 1100 – 1145 AND 1300 – 1345 on Sundays! If we’d known that we could’ve returned from Appley Bridge earlier. We must learn not to rely on the canal book; it’s been wrong too many times, though of course any book is out of date before it’s printed so it’s probable that the times have changed since the book’s research was carried out! It looked like a fascinating place, free admission and very colourful free postcards, an array of information, etc.  Go to: www.wlct.org/heritage for more details.

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Three sculptured heads mounted on the face of the building – not sure what the can-opener effect was all about?

P1090863 An old steam engine at the entrance to the Museum

P1090870 The ‘Indestructible Ventilator’ used for pumping air down the coal mining shafts

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The huge flywheel on the steam driven ‘Indestructible Ventilator’

P1090869 A little arty

P1090872 Part of the giant hammer used for making crank shafts, etc

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Very smart looking towpath along to Wigan Pier

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Two very old working boats moored at Mayor’s Marina

P1090848One was used for their extravagant fuel advertising campaign

Tomorrow we’ll be commencing our journey towards Manchester, the next big town on our itinerary …